30 August 2008

Allan on the Kokoda Trail

On Sunday 17 August Jack Laing (local Bungendore friend and vet) and I left for Port Morseby to begin our trip to Papua New Guinea to walk the Kokoda Trail. We went with Kokoda Spirit, which included guide Sean and twenty-five porters. Many of our group of fourteen walkers had a porter assigned to them to help carry their gear and assit on the trail. Jack and I carried all our own gear which was around 14kg without water. At times we carried up to four litres of water. I can't remember carrying this much water on Austrailian walks but we needed every bit of it here.The beginning of the Kododa Trail at Owers' Corner. We arrived here by bus after negotiating muddy roads from Port Morseby. Several times we had to get out of the bus as it raced to get up the boggy hills. We did not start walking until 3:00pm which put our schedule way behind.

A downpour started as soon as we started walking - so heavy it was horizontal. The rain was torrential. I have never seen rain like it before. It just came down in huge drops - just like a swimming pool through a colander. Within twenty minutes the track was an ankle deep creek. There was water everywhere. The flooded Goldie Creek prevented us from crossing as it rose over two metres and what is usually a thigh deep crossing became a major obstacle. We were literally able to stand on the side of the river and watch large boulders become submerged as the river rose.
River crossings were always fun. This is crossing the Goldie River on the second day a few hundred metres downstream from the normal crossing. The level had dropped overnight but was still too high. The boys literally built a log bridge over the river. In this photo is Ian, the oldest member of the group at 71 years. He had a great attitude and finished the entire trip in good form.There were many wet river crossings and here is Jack negotiating one. Wet feet became the order of the trip. I think I was the only whitey who wore the same socks, jocks, shirt and shorts for nine days straight.
Jack and I on the trail - I am the tall handsome one on the left.


This is Nauro village. All the villages were very clean and tidy. Because we were behind on our schedule, this turned into a nine hour day of walking with plenty of climbing. The next day was a ten hour day and it certainly was good to get the packs off and the tents up.World WWII rifle mounted on a post. The end of the third day. Most of the relics looked like this. For us amateurs it was very difficult to determine whether it was an Australian 303 or a Japanese rifle. The helmets were easier to distinguish.
In each village there was food to buy - bowls of bananas, mandarins etc. This was a great way to supplement our stores of fresh food. Sometimes there were little cakes to buy as well. Flour, water and some sultanas mixed together then fried in a pan. For a hungry walker the fruit and other foods were very welcome additions to our meals. Breakfasts were usually Wheatbix and some of the little flour cakes. Powdered milk, Milo, coffee (awful) or tea complemented the cereal. Lunches were a selection of cheese, corned beef (canned) Vitawheat biscuits, salami, fruit, Vegemite and jam. Dinners varied from rice, sweet potato to pasta with a variety of sauces. The boys did all the cooking over open fires and took great pride in cooking good food.

The kids of the village loved balloons and it seemed that every child had one or more. Trekkers often carry these as gifts for the children, however, they do have a very short life.

Never leave home without an umbrella - especially in PNG. Only Sean and I had umbrellas and were often envied. Walking in the rain is still hot and humid so an umbrella is a much better option than a rain jacket. Even in the heaviest rain it keeps you quite dry whilst walking in a rain jacket is vile. The umbrella sits over the top of the pack and the chest strap keeps the handle in place leaving both hands free. The track was wide enough that the umbrella never caught on the foliage. It also gives great shade in the sun.
 
Brigade Hill was one of the sites of heavy battle between Australian and Japanese forces. The Japenese managed to cut off the Australians for some time at this point.
 The memorial on Brigade Hill. This had been a long hot day and the camp was still one and a half hours walk from here.
Jack negotiating one of the many descents. The track is relentless in its ascents and descents and walking poles are used by just about everyone. They give you extra push going uphill and steady you on the descents.
 Many villages had museums dedicated to WWII armaments but in very poor condition. All the ammunition was still live which made it an interesting practice to pick up old, corroded grenades with the pin still attached.This is the village of Efoggi and these children are in the school choir who sang for us. They have lovely melodic voices and sing mainly hymms.

One of many, many children we saw in the villages. Not much happens in the villages so white trekkers are always good to watch.Another river crossing.
 
I met one of the last three Fuzzy Wuzzy Angles who assisted our soldiers on the Kokoda Trail during the campaign between the Australians and Japanese. He posed for photographs with the walkers for 10 kena (about $5) which went to the village. There are only three original Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels still alive. None have received any pension from either the PNG or Australian governments for their involvement in WWII.
With continuous rain, the trail became a bog. In some places the track was quite dry, in others it was a swamp. Boots and gaiters were put to good use although many of the porters preferred to go barefoot or in joggers.
Mud, mud and more mud.

Log bridges were just thrown up in no time by the boys. They were very adept in using local materials to create a stable, useable structure.
This village is on the banks of Eora Creek and had the best campsite. Often we camped on mud but here we had grass. During the campaign the Japanese had a mountain gun on a ridge overlooking this site and they bombed the crap out of the Australians with it. It took the Australians three days to climb the steep ridges and outflank the Japanese position.

WWII shells and casings from the Mountain Gun overlooking Eora Creek. They are all still live and just rusting away. These are 90mm shells. They had two parts, the explosive tip and the charge that propelled them from the gun. These cases had five explosive tips and the long thin tubes you can see are the fuses. Carrying the ammunition for these guns must have been appallingly difficult over the terrain. The Japanese outgunned the Australians during the campaign. From the start the Japanese had two types of mountain guns that could be dismantled for carrying as well as heavy machine guns. The heaviest weapon the Australians carried was the Bren gun. Although the Australians did have access to 25lb Howitzers, they were too cumbersome to move on the track and could not be dismantled. They did drag one up as far as Imita Ridge with great difficulty but the Japanese were in retreat by this time. In expertise of jungle warfare, the Japanese had it all over the Australians.

In one of the Japanese dug-outs.Sweet potato was a staple on the trip. The food was good - little meat but everything fresh and well cooked. When available our guide would buy food from the villages we pased through to support the local economy.


Papuan mother and daughter. The local people were very generous. You never felt pressured to purchase their products. They were also genuinely happy to have their photos taken.

This is the memorial at Isurava to the Australian soldiers who fought and died on the Kokoda Trail. The four granite blocks are engraved with Courage, Endurance, Mateship and Sacrifice. They are made from Australian granite and weigh three and a half tons each. The battle at Isurava occured during the fighting withdrawal made by the Austrailans from Kokoda back to Imita Ridge. At this point the Japanese came within a hairs breadth of over running the Australian position. If that had occurred, they may well have made it all the way to Moresby. Several heroic individual actions by Australian soldiers made the difference here. This is the location for the Anzac service on the Kokoda Trail each year.

The whole group at the finish - Kokoda Village - Sean our guide, 25 porters and 14 walkers. A great group. Without exception the trekkers and porters were a great group of people. We were: Jack and I from Bungendore, Ken and Steve from Adelaide, Nikky, Darren, Matt, Graeme, John and Bruce from Melbourne, Sandra from Townsville, Kelly and Karen from Sydney and Ian from the NSW Central Coast. Our guide Sean is from Darwin. The boys came from various villages, many of which were on the track itself. A better group of walkers you could not find - never a complaint, only laughter, smiles, encouragement and friendship. Jack and I could not believe that we were so lucky to walk the Kokoda Trail with such a wonderful group of people.

06 June 2008

Soccer Highlights

Jack plays with the Bungendore Dragons - a mix of U9/U10 boys with Allan as their coach. They train in Bungendore and play in Queanbeyan each week.


This photo of the team was taken after their first game on 10 May when they played against the Burnouts, the other U9/U10 Bungendore team.

10 May - two Bungendore teams on the field - the Dragons and the Burnouts.

17 May - against the Evils.
17 May - Hugh and Jack taking a rest getting back to the centre during their game against the Evils.17 May - if Meg can't play soccer, she'll just go and get the witches hats - so there!!31 May - the Dragons vs the Monkeys.31 May - after the ball against the Monkeys.31 May - Jack as goalie against the Monkeys.

29 May 2008

2007 October - Camping trip from Bungendore to Qld

In late September 2007 we went on a three week camping trip from Bungendore to Maroochydore and home again. We travelled up the coast and back inland and had a wonderful time.

Our first stop was Port Macquarie where we went whale watching and saw quite a number of Humpback whales. It was absolutely magic.

We stayed with Meg, Peter and Matthew who own and run an organic macadamia property outside Alstonville in the far north of NSW. They produce chocolate macadamias to die for but also salted and unsalted non-chocolate macadamias as well as soap and other goodies made from macadamia oil. Their products (Organic Healthy Nut) are found all over Australia.

We then had six days on the Gold Coast and stayed at the Treasure Island Resort which has recently been rated the NRMA's top camping ground in Australia. It was fantastic and the pool was to die for with a wonderful slide for both big and little kids. Allan, Jack and Meg spent hours in the pool. There was also a jumping pillow which Jack was a regular on.
Jack lost his first front tooth.
Jack and Meg in the camper trailer.

You can't visit the Gold Coast without going to the Theme Parks (at least if you have anyone under 15 you can't!!). First stop was Movie World which was a blast. Jack had his first roller-coaster ride and just keep joining the queue and going again .... and again .... and again .... and again.
A photograph with Sylvester is the done thing ....

but you can't go past the Wild West Falls ride on a hot day. This was taken at the top of the drop and you spash down into the water at the bottom of the hill. Great for cooling off and an absolutely blast. Jack and I are enjoying the ride this time (last seat).

We met with friends Tracey, Noah and their daughter Ayesha for a wonderful day at Seaworld. Ayesha looked after Meg beautifully and showed her dolphins and all sorts of wonderful things.

Meg with Ayesha giving her a hand.
Jack loves tattoos - so far the non-permanent kind thankfully. He chose this design and had it applied and it lasted about six days.
Meg is not sure about the Skyway over Seaworld ....
but she feels much safer on the ground peeking through fences.


We visited our friends Peter, Marilyn, Jarrod and Eloise in Brisbane and had a excellent stay. The pool was a big hit (as always!) and they had this gorgeous little Noisy Miner nesting in one of their trees and many beautiful red flowering gums.
Jack is a great helper when it comes to putting up and pulling down the camper trailer. Here he is doing the press studs attaching the canvas covers to the trailer.
We visited Buderim to see our friends Sharon and Tiffany Jones at the Tiffany Jones Fine Art Gallery but Jack was much happier climbing trees than viewing Norman Lindsay!!

We went to Australia Zoo which was THE BEST ZOO and had a wonderful time. We saw Terri Irwin feeding crocodiles ....
and Jack spent a long time on the climbing wall (Allan did a climb too!). Jack is on the left at the top and Allan on the right (both in red shirts).

Meg thought the crocodiles fascinating but only wanted to get near this one. Her nickname now is Croc Bait after a book Jack owns of the same name!

The kangaroos held a lot of attraction and both Meg and Jack patted and fed them. They were in a huge area and had a special section where people were kept out and they could retreat when they had had enough food and pats!

The end of a great day with Jack jumping with Steve.
Boonah was our last stay for a couple of days before heading home. We stayed with Di, Simon, Bec and Jessie which was great fun. It was hot and the Equine Influenza epedemic had hit home hard with Boonah being very close to Warwick where it all started. We enjoyed the pool to cool off before storms arrived each afternoon and early evening. Jessie had the right idea in the pool ....